Big Star

Taqueria bar · Wicker Park After Work $$

Big Star, Paul Kahan's honky-tonk taqueria in Wicker Park, is the American after-work bar at its most fun. Since 2009 it has drawn Chicagoans to its coveted patio for tacos al pastor on house tortillas, margaritas, and one of the city's deepest single-barrel bourbon lists, all to a soundtrack of classic country and rock and roll. It is loud, affordable, walk-in and joyful, the antidote to the reservation-only dining that surrounds it, and one of the most reliably enjoyable places in the city to start an evening.

The bar sits at 1531 North Damen Avenue, on a corner in the heart of Wicker Park, in a converted 1940s gas station whose garage doors roll up onto the patio. (A quick note for anyone using this directory: the page currently sits under a "stadium-bar-grill" address, but the venue is Big Star, the Wicker Park taqueria documented here, and the listing slug should be corrected.) The site had been a neighbourhood bar called the Pontiac Cafe until it closed in 2008; a year later Big Star opened in its place and quickly became a defining fixture of the area.

Paul Kahan and the honky-tonk idea

Big Star is a One Off Hospitality restaurant, and its executive chef and partner is Paul Kahan, one of the most decorated figures in Chicago food. Kahan is the chef behind Blackbird, avec and The Publican, a Food and Wine Best New Chef and a multiple James Beard Award winner widely credited with helping build Chicago's chef-driven, ingredient-focused dining culture. Big Star is his loose, populist counterpoint to those restaurants: an explicit homage to the honky-tonk bars of Bakersfield, California, the home of the twangy "Bakersfield sound" country music of Buck Owens and Merle Haggard.

That homage runs through everything. The staff choose and spin the music, a mix of classic country and rock and roll, and, in a decision that felt pointed even in 2009, there are no televisions. The ethos is no-frills and welcoming: tacos, whiskey and beer in a lively room built for a good time, with walk-ins always welcome. For an after-work bar, that combination of a serious kitchen and a serious bar behind a completely unpretentious front door is close to ideal.

The tacos

Tacos are the heart of the menu, and they are taken seriously. The corn tortillas are made by hand in-house, one at a time, every day, and the tacos are served family-style so a table can graze across the menu. House staples include tacos al pastor, Baja-style fish, and the panza, alongside from-scratch guacamole and a queso fundido of melted cheese with house chorizo and roasted poblano. It is street-food-inspired cooking executed with the care you would expect from a Kahan kitchen, at prices and in a setting that keep it firmly in the realm of a casual weeknight rather than an occasion.

Bourbon, margaritas and beer

The drinks are where Big Star's after-work credentials are clearest. The bar runs an extensive, ever-growing program of house-selected single-barrel bourbons and whiskeys, the kind of list that gives the honky-tonk theme real substance rather than mere decoration. Alongside it are margaritas made with fresh lime juice (and shareable margarita pitchers), palomas, micheladas, a rotating set of stirred cocktails and old fashioneds, and a handful of beers on tap. The food, liquor and cocktail menus all change seasonally, so there is always something new to work through. It is a bar you can visit for a quick cold beer and a taco or settle into for a long evening of bourbon, and it handles both with equal ease.

The patio

Big Star's large corner patio is one of its signature draws and is regularly called one of the best in Chicago. The former garage's doors open straight onto it, blurring the line between inside and out, and on a warm evening it becomes one of the liveliest and most sought-after spots in Wicker Park, with both covered and open-air seating. Much of the bar's after-work energy lives out here, and grabbing a patio seat with a margarita and a plate of tacos is one of the quintessential Chicago summer rituals.

Wicker Park, and the wider Big Star

The bar sits near the famous "Six Corners," the six-way meeting of Milwaukee, North and Damen Avenues that forms the commercial heart of Wicker Park, right by the Damen stop on the CTA Blue Line. That location makes it exceptionally easy to reach and exactly the sort of walk-in neighbourhood anchor that an after-work bar should be. Big Star has since grown beyond Wicker Park: a larger second location opened in Wrigleyville in 2018, in the Hotel Zachary development across from Wrigley Field, with two floors, a big outdoor area with ballpark views and the same honky-tonk playlist. The brand even launched its own in-house record label, Big Star Recording Co., tying the soundtrack into an actual music imprint. But the original Damen Avenue taqueria remains the definitive one.

The Bakersfield sound, and a bar with no televisions

The honky-tonk concept is not a costume. Big Star is a genuine homage to the roadhouse bars of Bakersfield, California, the home of the twangy, guitar-driven country music that Buck Owens and Merle Haggard made famous in the 1960s, a rawer counterpoint to the polish of Nashville. That spirit shapes the whole room. The staff choose and spin the records, moving between classic country and rock and roll, and in a decision that felt genuinely contrarian when the bar opened in 2009, there are no televisions anywhere. In a city where so many bars are built around game day and a wall of screens, Big Star made the opposite bet: that people would rather talk, drink and listen to good music than watch a monitor. It is a decision that keeps the energy on the room and the crowd, and it is a big part of why the place feels like a bar rather than a sports lounge that happens to serve tacos.

The building reinforces the mood. Big Star occupies a converted 1940s gas station on a corner lot, and the old garage doors roll up to fuse the interior with the patio, so that on a warm night the line between inside and out dissolves entirely. The site had been a long-running neighbourhood bar, the Pontiac Cafe, until it closed in 2008; a year later Big Star took the space and made it one of the defining corners of Wicker Park. That sense of a place with a past, reclaimed and given a new, rowdier life, suits the honky-tonk theme perfectly.

Paul Kahan's populist counterpoint

It is worth dwelling on who is behind all this, because it explains why the food and drink are so much better than the casual setting demands. Big Star belongs to One Off Hospitality, the group built by chef Paul Kahan, one of the most decorated figures in American cooking. Kahan is the chef behind Blackbird, avec and The Publican, a Food and Wine Best New Chef and a multiple James Beard Award winner who helped define Chicago's ingredient-driven restaurant culture. Big Star is his loose, populist counterpoint to those more serious rooms: proof that the same standards of sourcing and craft can be applied to a taco and a shot of bourbon as to a tasting menu. The handmade tortillas, pressed one at a time every day, are the clearest expression of that philosophy, a small, labour-intensive detail that most taquerias would skip and that Big Star treats as non-negotiable.

A record label and a second act

Big Star has grown into something bigger than a single bar without losing the plot. In 2016 it launched its own in-house record label, Big Star Recording Co., tying the honky-tonk soundtrack into an actual music imprint rather than just a playlist, a flourish that says a lot about how seriously it takes its own theme. And in 2018 it opened a larger second location in Wrigleyville, in the Hotel Zachary development directly across from Wrigley Field, with two floors, a big outdoor area offering ballpark views and the same country-and-rock soundtrack. The Wrigleyville outpost is bigger and busier, tuned to the rhythms of a stadium neighbourhood, but the original Damen Avenue taqueria remains the definitive one, the corner where the whole idea was proven. For the after-work occasion in particular, it is the Wicker Park original, walk-in and unhurried, that belongs on this list.

A Chicago summer ritual

Ask Chicagoans about Big Star and the conversation almost always arrives at the patio. The city endures long, grey winters, and it responds by living outdoors with a particular intensity the moment the weather turns, which makes a great patio one of the most valuable things a bar can own. Big Star's large corner deck, with the old garage doors thrown open behind it, is regularly named among the best in Chicago, and on a warm evening it becomes one of the liveliest spots in Wicker Park: a crush of people with margaritas and tacos, country music drifting out from inside, the whole scene tipping from after-work drinks into a full summer night without anyone quite deciding to make it one. Grabbing a seat out there, on the first genuinely warm Friday of the year, is close to a civic ritual.

That patio is the clearest expression of why Big Star works as an after-work bar rather than merely a good restaurant. It rewards the spontaneous and the unplanned. You do not book it, you do not dress for it, and you do not need an occasion; you simply turn up, put your name down or find a spot, and let the evening unfold at the pace of the queue for the next round. For all the seriousness of the kitchen and the depth of the bourbon list, the experience is fundamentally easy, and that ease, more than any single taco or pour, is what keeps locals folding it into their weeks year after year.

When to go

Big Star opens late morning and runs late into the night, seven days a week, with a weekday happy hour in the late afternoon that is squarely aimed at the after-work crowd. Exact hours and deals shift and are worth checking before a trip, but the rhythm is dependable: it is busy and good-natured from the end of the workday onward, and the patio fills fast on warm evenings. There is no need to book; this is a walk-in bar in the truest sense, though larger parties can arrange seating in advance. Arrive in the late afternoon or early evening, claim a patio seat if you can, order tacos al pastor and either a margarita or a pour from the bourbon list, and you have one of the most purely enjoyable after-work sessions in the city. For more, see our Chicago after-work list and the full Chicago bar guide.

What to order

  • 01

    Tacos al pastor

    On house-made tortillas, pressed fresh daily.

  • 02

    A margarita (or a pitcher)

    Made with fresh lime juice, built for the patio.

  • 03

    A single-barrel bourbon

    From the house-selected program, the honky-tonk heart of the bar.

  • 04

    Queso fundido

    Melted cheese with house chorizo and roasted poblano.

Sources: Big Star official site; One Off Hospitality (Paul Kahan); Chicago magazine (2009); Choose Chicago. Opening year, ownership and concept verified against these; prices and exact hours are omitted as they change.

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