The broadest central-European natural-wine bench in Vesterbro, served in a bistrot room that takes the breadth seriously.
wine · Modern Falernum is the long-running Vesterbro wine bar that quietly tracks new natural producers more aggressively than its plain-spoken room suggests. The list is broader than the city's most fashionable rooms — German, Austrian and Slovenian whites all have meaningful representation — and the by-the-glass programme leans pét-nat and skin-contact at a level the rest of the city is only now catching up to.
The food is bistrot-classical, the room is busy, and the staff have been with the bar long enough to argue with you about producers. It ranks seventh for buying breadth: nowhere else in Vesterbro covers central Europe this seriously.
For the full ranking, see our editorial round-up of the 10 best wine bars in Copenhagen, the broader Copenhagen wine bars guide, and our category index of wine bars worldwide.