Taberna Averías has anchored the wine end of Calle de Ponzano 16 in Chamberí since 2016. The cellar runs past 400 references, Spanish, French, Italian, and New World, plus champagnes and sherries, and the house policy is the point: everything pours by the glass.
It suits drinkers who treat a wine list as a menu of experiments. It will annoy anyone who wants a long seated dinner; the room is a standing taberna with exactly four high tables.
A white marble bar for the pours, a narrow ledge running the walls for glasses and plates, and stools you have to earn. EsMadrid describes the design as classicism and modernity in one room, which translates as a clean modern space wearing taberna manners.
Tell the staff a direction and a budget; sommelier led service is the house engine, with glasses from around 3.50 euros and a 16 to 30 euro spend covering a serious evening. Time Out highlights the by the glass policy as the best wine education on Ponzano. The food list backs it with charcuterie, salted fish, pickles, and full dishes like callos and fabada.
Chamberí professionals, wine trade regulars, and the younger crowd Wanderlog's Madrid wine ranking notes has adopted the place. Thursday through Saturday nights run loud and shoulder to shoulder. The midday weekend shift drinks slower and asks more questions.
Calle Ponzano is Madrid's densest eating street, served by Alonso Cano and Iglesia metro stops. Make it a wine crawl with La Fisna in Lavapiés, or stay classic at Vinoteca Moratín near the Prado.
Thursday lunch is the insider window, when the full list pours into a calm room. Friday and Saturday after 21:00 deliver the full Ponzano roar, for better and worse.
Madrid has grander wine rooms, but none more generous with the cellar. Averías pours its entire list one glass at a time, and that policy alone earns the metro ride.