Enoteca Belledonne occupies a single small room on Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18, the alley that cuts behind Via Chiaia. Lonely Planet lists it as an institution among Chiaia locals, and the description holds: shelves of Campania bottles, a counter, and not much else.
The pour list leans regional. Falanghina, Fiano, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi all rotate by the glass, and In Your Pocket notes the kitchen sends out two or three simple dishes a night, no more.
One caution. Yelp marks the old late night bar listing closed, while the official site and an active Facebook page show the shop and tasting operation running on daytime hours. Check the calendar before a late visit.
One room, shelf to ceiling bottles, a handful of tables. The crowd spills into the vico at aperitivo hour, glasses against the ochre wall opposite.
Chiaia professionals at aperitivo hour, neighborhood regulars who have kept the same shelf spot for years, and wine tourists working through the Campania DOC list.
Early evening is the moment. The vico fills between 6pm and 8pm, then the shop closes and the street goes quiet.
Amedeo metro sits five minutes uphill. The alley is easy to miss; aim for the corner of Via Belledonne and walk the vico.
Pair it with a speakeasy stop at L'Antiquario two streets down once the shop closes.
What to order
- 01
Falanghina by the glass
- 02
Taurasi
- 03
The tasting flight