Chambers

Cocktail Bars $$$

Chambers occupies the corner of 94 Chambers Street in Tribeca, in the space that for years ran as a wine-focused restaurant before reopening under Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier. It reads as a wine bar first and a restaurant second. Walk in for a single glass at the marble bar, or settle in for a bottle pulled from a list that runs from nine-dollar pours up into rare and vintage territory.

Who will love it: anyone who treats a wine list as a reading list. Lepeltier is one of a small number of Master Sommeliers in the United States, and the program leans natural and biodynamic without turning preachy about it. Who might not: if you came for a loud, high-energy night, this is the wrong address. Chambers rewards the solo sipper and the small group over the big group out.

Oak shelving stacked with bottles, a marble bar, soft lighting, and a layout that works as well for one glass as it does for a four-top. Star Wine List, which catalogs serious wine venues worldwide, files it as a destination bar built around the by-the-glass program. The bones of the old Tribeca wine room are still here; the stewardship is what changed.

The by-the-glass list runs to roughly twenty wines, opening as low as $9 and climbing into rare and vintage pours, so it is worth asking the floor to steer you toward something you would not order on your own. The cocktail list is short but considered. The Anywhere But Here pulls tequila, mezcal, tepache, and lime into something bright and a little funky. The Depinna leans savory, with vodka, fino sherry, pear, celery, and soda. Order a glass you cannot pronounce and let the sommelier-trained staff guide you. That is where this place shows off.

Expect Tribeca locals, off-duty hospitality people, and wine-curious diners drifting over from nearby restaurants. It fills earlier than a cocktail den and quiets down sooner. Best on a weeknight when you can actually talk to whoever is pouring.

Chambers Street sits at the northern edge of Tribeca, a short walk from the Chambers St stops on the A/C and 1/2/3 lines and the R/W at City Hall. It is an easy stop before or after dinner nearby. Early evening is the window for a relaxed seat at the bar and the full attention of whoever is pouring; it tightens up later as nearby tables turn over.

Go for the wine before the food. The kitchen is capable, but the by-the-glass list and the sommelier behind it are the reason to choose this address over a dozen others within a few blocks. Treat it as a wine bar with a good cocktail backup rather than a restaurant with a wine list.

For a full downtown wine-and-cocktail evening, walk it together with Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in New York, Frenchette in New York, or end the night at The Dead Rabbit in New York down in the Financial District.

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