Editorial
Dallas earned its agave reputation the slow way: one obsessive back bar at a time. The city that once meant frozen margaritas now holds one of the most respected mezcal rooms in the country, and D Magazine keeps a running guide to the bars chasing it.
This guide ranks the three rooms doing it best, from an Expo Park shrine to a Lovers Lane dining room, with the wider Dallas cocktail map for the rest of the night.
The city's serious agave concentrates in three very different rooms: a scholarly shrine, a Deep Ellum night machine, and a polished Park Cities dining room. Together they cover every version of a mezcal night Dallas currently offers.
The Parry Avenue room near Fair Park is a two time James Beard semifinalist, and the Dallas Observer calls it the city's premier agave bar. The wall reads like a museum of small batch mezcal, sotol, raicilla, and Fortaleza tequila. Order a neat pour, sit with it, and let the staff steer the second round.
The Commerce Street bar runs an agave list up front and a club room in back, with a courtyard between them. Early evening belongs to the mezcal; after 10pm the volume wins. Come on a weeknight if the list is the point, and on a weekend if the party is.
The Lovers Lane dining room pours the Park Cities version of agave: a deep tequila and mezcal list behind a margarita program that takes its blanco seriously. Ask for a flight before dinner. This is the room for the table that wants ceremony with its espadin.
"Dallas treats agave the Texas way: deep shelves, no ceremony, and a bartender who knows every bottle."
Start with an espadin and drink it neat, sipped slowly, with the orange slice as punctuation rather than a chaser. At Las Almas Rotas the staff will pour a taste before you commit, which is the mark of a serious room.
Expect neat pours to run from 10 to 25 dollars depending on rarity. If a list runs deeper, one wild agave like tobala justifies the jump in price once, to understand the difference.
Skip the frozen margarita machines of Uptown patio season if agave is the point; the pours are commercial mixto and the markup buys ice rather than quality. Skip, too, any list that prices espadin and wild agave identically, which signals nobody behind the bar knows the difference.
Steakhouse bars across the city keep a bottle or two of celebrity tequila for the label rather than the liquid. Ask what is open and how long it has been open; oxidation dulls an agave pour faster than most bars admit.
The honest Dallas mezcal night runs Expo Park to Deep Ellum, a fifteen minute walk between rooms. Start at Las Almas Rotas while the evening is young and the bartenders have time to talk, then walk to Ruins as the night picks up speed.
Pace matters with neat pours. Two done slowly beat five done carelessly, and both rooms reward the drinker who asks questions; the agave conversation is half the value.
Tuesday through Thursday is the agave window, when the rooms are conversational and the staff can linger over the list. Jose works best as the early seating before a crawl east.
For everything else the city pours, our Dallas guide and the global cocktail bars index carry the longer list, and our ranked Dallas guide covers the rooms beyond agave.
Las Almas Rotas for the library, Ruins for the night, Jose for the table. Espadin neat is the order, and the orange slice is punctuation.
Las Almas Rotas in Expo Park. The back wall carries small batch mezcal, sotol, and raicilla, and the bar has earned two James Beard semifinalist nods.
Increasingly so. D Magazine keeps a running guide to the city's agave bars, and rooms like Ruins in Deep Ellum now build entire programs around it.
An espadin, neat. It is the benchmark agave and the fairest test of a list before you spend on rarer wild varieties.
Tom Callahan covers American bars for barsforKings, with a focus on Texas, the Midwest, and the sports bar canon.
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